Dandyism has always been more than a fashion statement. For Black individuals, it’s a form of self-expression, defiance, and survival. As the 2025 Met Gala spotlights this tradition with its theme Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, understanding the roots and significance of Black dandyism becomes essential. Long before red carpets and couture Vogue photo shoots, Black dandies used style to challenge oppression and articulate the complexities of Black identity.
What Is Black Dandyism?
Black dandyism merges sharp European tailoring with vibrant colors, bold accessories, and influences from the African diaspora. Beyond aesthetics, it embodies transformation. From the 18th century to the present, Black dandies have utilized fashion to resist limiting identities and forge new forms of self-expression.
The tradition traces back to 18th-century England, where wealthy slave owners dressed enslaved Black men in extravagant clothing to display their status. These men reimagined the attire, infusing it with creativity and personality, becoming early trendsetters known for their wit, confidence, and distinctive style.
Today, Black dandyism permeates various cultural spheres, evident in editorial spreads, music videos, and award shows. It serves as a testament to the enduring power of style as a tool for resistance and identity formation.
The Birth of the Black Dandy
The earliest Black dandies were not celebrities but individuals navigating oppressive systems, using clothing as both protection and protest. In 18th-century London, Julius Soubise—a free man and socialite—gained notoriety for his bold style, donning diamond-buckled, red-heeled shoes and elaborate suits. His fashion choices were not merely for attention; they demanded respect and visibility in spaces designed to exclude him.
Some Black servants were compelled to wear luxurious European fashion as symbols of their master’s wealth. Yet, they added personal touches, transforming uniforms into statements of agency. What began as imposed fashion evolved into a beautiful form of resistance.
Harlem to Hip-Hop: The Evolution of Black Dandyism
As Black communities cultivated cultural spaces, dandyism evolved. During the Harlem Renaissance, style became both political and poetic. Zoot suits, tailored coats, and bold accessories symbolized pride and resistance.
In the civil rights era, public figures like James Baldwin and Martin Luther King Jr. used fashion to convey dignity and leadership, with every detail of their appearance carrying profound meaning.
By the late 20th century, dandyism permeated pop culture. André Leon Talley redefined fashion journalism, while André 3000 blended vintage flair with modern Southern style. Designer Dapper Dan fused streetwear with luxury, making high fashion both accessible and political.
Contemporary Black dandies continue to reshape fashion. Colman Domingo’s red carpet style exemplifies the fusion of tailoring, color, and texture, while Janelle Monáe’s early career signature—sleek black-and-white suiting—offered a bold, futuristic take on classic menswear. Teyana Taylor’s fashion choices further illustrate the versatility and depth of modern Black dandyism.
More Than an Aesthetic: The Politics of Black Elegance
Black dandyism has always been political. In societies shaped by race, gender, and class oppression, appearance became both survival and protest. Black individuals have long been judged and marginalized based on their appearance. Dandyism challenges these judgments.
Monica L. Miller, in her book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity,, elucidates how dandies have employed fashion, gesture, and wit to counteract limiting labels, offering new ways of existing and resisting.
Dapper Dan captures this spirit.
I saw the power of transformation that could take place with your clothes. Instantly, you can become somebody else.
The Met Gala 2025 and Mainstream Recognition
The 2025 Met Gala theme, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, aligns with the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibit of the same name. Inspired by Miller’s research, the exhibition explores how style has shaped Black identities across the Atlantic diaspora, featuring garments, art, and objects from the 18th century to today.
The exhibit comprises twelve sections, each reflecting a key characteristic of the style. Themes like Champion, Respectability, Heritage, and Cosmopolitanism demonstrate how self-presentation serves as a tool for both distinction and resistance.
In tandem with the Met Gala, Vogue‘s May 2025 issue pays homage to Black dandyism. The issue features four cover stars—Pharrell Williams, A$AP Rocky, Colman Domingo, and Lewis Hamilton—who also serve as co-chairs for the gala. A standout element is the “Superfine” suiting portfolio, a collaboration between photographer Tyler Mitchell and stylist Law Roach, capturing over 40 Black creatives from various fields. This portfolio celebrates Black dandyism as a vibrant and expressive force in contemporary culture.
Black dandyism transcends fashion; it is a history of transformation, creativity, and resilience. From the 18th century to the present, Black dandies have turned oppression into artistry and invisibility into bold visibility.
As the Met Gala honors this legacy, the world glimpses what Black dandies have always known: style is not merely about appearance. It’s about claiming power, rewriting narratives, and envisioning new possibilities.
